More Day 7 and some Day 8: July 27 and 28

Since I couldn't finish writing this morning I thought I'd just create a new post to talk about Days 7 and 8. I have already started a little about Vegas in the last post but I'd like to back up to the morning.

Day 7: Grand Canyon and Vegas

We were up at 6:30 and on the road by 7:30. With this kind of a day ahead we knew we'd need time. The drive to the grand canyon was unlike anything we'd seen for days. All of a sudden we were in green forests interspersed with what looked like ranches. Katharine veered off the side of the road at the sight of a sign for baby buffalo but nothing was open. Baby almost anything would engender squeals of delight from us, so this is a loss.

On to the canyon, which I have never seen and Katharine hasn't since 8th grade. Everyone has repeatedly told me how spectacular it is so I was prepared to be astounded. But it never really works like that. You just can't anticipate its size and grandeur. I know pictures don't capture it and that most people have seen it, I can't resist including some here.

What I had no idea about, however, was Katharine's fear of heights. She moved slowly down the path to the viewing station and then told me that she really would prefer to crawl to the edge. As families leaned on the railings posing for pictures, Katharine would gape at them before shielding her eyes waiting for impending doom. Later we overheard a father describing to his 8 year old daughter how one could scale the rockface and Katharine couldn't help but mention to me her role as a mandated reporter to social services.

Here's Katharine avoiding the view while descending a path. After trying to get on a shuttle to see more of the canyon we ditched the line and headed down the blue angel path, finding more stunning views. Walking with all of that space and depth even made me dizzy so I could appreciate Katharine's method.

When we were thoroughly sweaty after only hiking for half an hour, I swore I would come back and actually go to the bottom of this thing. It would be incredible to be totally enveloped in these sights. But being enveloped in any sights is not what this trip is about. We needed to move up and out to the next wonder of the world: Vegas.

On our way we experienced yet another torrential down pour and pulled off the road for a while. The weather continues to vary dramatically. As we enter the heat, TomTom begins to have a crisis, thinking we are going the wrong way and his little computer voice rises in panic as it tells us to turn around. Luckily we know better and tell him it will all be alright and he straightens out a few minutes later.

We crossed mountains and began to see signs for the Hoover Dam, which Katharine expressed an interest in seeing. "Really?" I asked. "The Hoover Dam was on your list of things to see?" I had begun to realize that almost any sightseeing attraction within reach was on Katharine's list of things to see and we managed to agree that if it was on the way we would go. As it turns out, you can't actually miss it on the way to Vegas and it was pretty amazing. Somehow in this picture it looks like it's out if a 70's sci fi flick.

Here's another favorite sign: (we have photographed every sign since Virginia if anyone's curious. They're just not all as brilliant as this.)

And on to Vegas... This was one of our first sights after coming on to the strip. It's our second Statue of Liberty sighting on the trip, you might recall. Like immigrants to America, we have arrived in Vegas.

For the first two hours we were in Vegas, Katharine couldn't stop saying, "This is crazy" and I couldn't help but agree. After three days of driving through sparse landscape and natural beauty we were thrust into opulence and gaudy materialism. It was a pretty big shock to the system. In fact, we almost didn't make it out of the hotel room once we discovered "Monster in law" (both horrible and irresistable at once) on tv.

Once we got to our first casino (the MGM Grand) we decided to try our hand at the nickel slots. We are not gamblers and this showed as we couldn't figure out how to use the machines and didn't understand how to play the games. This was not one of our finer moments. After a few embarrassing tries at shoving change in the slots we realized that this is a paper world and it only accepts dollars. Katharine instantly won 2 dollars and inspired, I tried a machine too. On my first try I won five dollars, promptly cashed out and never tried another machine. I was keen on staying on top in Vegas.

I should explain this voucher I hold here. Not only do you not use coins, you don't receive them either when you win. The machine makes an electronic noise meant to simulate coins dropping and it prints out this ticket. The ticket goes into a machine that then spits out your winnings. This ain't nothin' like the gambling I remember from 6 years ago in Reno where I carried around a bucket with change in it.

From here, the night alternated between surreal, awesome and slightly panic inducing. We saw lions from underneath plexiglass and watched them play like kittens with human trainers. The water show in front of the Bellagio stunned us with coreography to Aaron Copland and Elvis. Buffets beckoned from every corner and the lights, glamour and excess of everything was stunning. However, the casinos twisted and turned and Katharine and I found ourselves asking for directions to everything, including the exit. Once out we couldn't get across the street except for going back into the casino, going upstairs, across a bridge, down an escalator and up another to cross yet another street. Getting around took strength and fortitude and at times I wanted to just check into one of the hotels to rest. But we finally found dinner at the Flamingo before stumbling home around midnight.

Today we went to "Old Vegas" on Fremont street. This came highly recommended by Tania and I am glad we went. This strip was significantly calmer, more straightforward and best of all, not panic inducing. We had delightful frothy drinks and then found a 7.77 buffet. After this experience, (our 3rd buffet of the trip) Katharine and I decide that there are some flaws with this concept and decide to rid our diets of buffets. Having gone to many gift shops on this trip it came as no surprise to see that Las Vegas boasted the biggest. I mean, if it's in this town it has to be the best.

Old Vegas does not, however, have all the kitsch that we would like. For days there has been talk of the great retro postcards we were going to find and then nada. Katharine is pretty disappointed as she also had her sights set on Don Ho glasses and they are nowhere to be found. We take our last walk through a smoky casino on our way to the parking garage and head out of town. For the first time it appears Katharine has hit a wall and swears off sightseeing (something I would never have believed.) I silently promised myself I wouldn't let her get too good a night's sleep so that we can get to San Jose tomorrow.

This drive is stunning too and we sit, largely in silence, watching. The strange thing is that we have not needed much entertainment on this trip other than what's out of the window. Especially once we hit the midwest, there are days where we listen to no music except to check the local radio stations. The best reason for this I can think of is that we are pretty satisfied by seeing so much new scenery all the time that we don't need it. And I think Katharine and I are having big experiences of our own. I have been slowly coming to terms with the fact that this trip will end in California and that I will stay there, not hop back on a plane home to Boston. Along the trip people have asked us where we are from and I am put in this funny position of figuring out what to answer. Do I say Boston because it feels like home still? Technically I don't have an address at either place just yet. I am truly in limbo. But as California approaches, I know that the limbo is coming to an end, as is this particular adventure and there will be a lot to be done. I am both excited and somewhat dreading everything that is coming and as a coping mechanism I have been engrossed in finishing the 6th Harry Potter book before the full on dive into the last. Sometimes, simple distraction is all I can ask for.

Once in California, the landscape changes slightly and, am I crazy or does it look familiar? There are these hills that look like fabric has been draped over them, leaving creases of soft brown grass. We are really here now. On the phone, my friend Alison (who just moved to Oakland) welcomes me to the state in an excited voice and it again all seems too real. Alison has been researching apartments as though she were a dedicated realtor and has been incredible in helping me begin to get settled. I guess it's really happening.

Sunday: arrival in San Jose at my Dad and Louise's house.